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_travel-recommendations/japan.md

@@ -86,10 +86,10 @@ If you fly into Narita International Airport, you may see signs as you're waitin
 - The [**TeamLab**](https://www.teamlab.art/) 🎨 experiential art museums were really cool! There are two: [**TeamLab Borderless**](https://www.teamlab.art/e/tokyo/) and [**TeamLab Planets**](https://www.teamlab.art/e/planets/). You should definitely reserve in advance (ideally a few weeks, though some last minute spots can open up). The two museums have some overlap. TeamLab Planets is a bit more linear -- there's a set sequence to follow to walk through it all; TeamLab Borderless is much more of a choose-your-own-adventure, wandering through tons of rooms, finding hidden doors, and you may not actually find every space in the time you're there! The museums are very well done; this is not a "just for the 'gram" experience, it's actually really cool... although it definitely *also* makes for some dramatic instagram posts.
 - We weren't able to visit the [**Ghibli Museum**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/qD3uwsdbaRweGmtL9), even though I was ready to buy tickets at 10am Japan Time on the 10th of the month, the month before our visit ([buying tickets](https://www.ghibli-museum.jp/en/tickets/)). I sat in a concert-ticket-like queue for almost an hour, and the website crashed repeatedly when I finally was at the front of the queue to buy tickets... I then learned that Klook had been selling tickets months in advance, though they are not at the time I write this (June 2024)... My advice would be to buy tickets in advance through a third party if they are available, or to log on *at least* 15-20 minutes before ticket sales open (and to use the Chrome browser for it). Don't try to use the ticket link for Japanese residents unless you have a Japanese phone number and address.
 - I loved the **Asakusa** neighborhood and [**Senso-ji Temple**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/yrnmY5PshRGN6LLB6) a lot! There were lots of interesting souvenirs and snacks along [Nakamise-dori Street](https://maps.app.goo.gl/TrWeBWPjuhqfyfJD8) from the train station to the temple, and the temple and gardens were stunningly beautiful. Buy charms if you'd like, but I'd recommend NOT buying your fortune... there are a lot of bad ones! I also got inspired by the Japanese fashion I was seeing, and found a cool Japanese jacket nearby at [**Fujigoromo**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/rMaiTnzgHJ8kZoz4A).
-- The [**Meguro River Cherry Blossoms Promenade**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/caLXY54Rpm1ZCQFq5) was a lovely walk, especially since we got lucky to coincide with sakura season.
+- The [**Meguro River Cherry Blossoms Promenade**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/caLXY54Rpm1ZCQFq5) 🌸 was a lovely walk, especially since we got lucky to coincide with sakura season.
 - [**The Flat Head**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/wbhVh7Ty8e1GZwUp7) 👖 is a nice denim boutique in **Harajuku** where I bought a great denim jacket! If you get hungry while shopping, the [Dai Sui En](https://maps.app.goo.gl/nubCCvpnMmhtiatdA) izakaya next door is solid. My friend said there were more good stores for women's clothing a couple blocks east on Cat Street.
 - [**Meiji Jingu**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/TZsqwyWavCzytayG8) is a nice temple in Harajuku, set in a large park.
-- [**HANDS Shinjuku**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/negGz1EN4km3XfnR9) 🛍️ is an impressive department store, and especially a destination for crafters, sewers, etc. [**Sekaido Shinjuku**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/cGkjoF2AAo9pdS2i7) is nearby and is an excellent, large stationery store.
+- [**HANDS Shinjuku**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/negGz1EN4km3XfnR9) 🛍️ is an impressive department store, and especially a destination for crafters, sewers, etc. [**Sekaido Shinjuku**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/cGkjoF2AAo9pdS2i7) 🖋️ is nearby and is an excellent, large stationery store.
 - There are a ton of video game arcades across Japan. I went particularly to [**HEY**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/TYjN15Q7X4SBKLzs7?g_st=ia) 🕹️ in Akihabara because I knew it had the [*Densha de Go!*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Densha_de_Go!) 🚉 train simulation, which was amazing (actually there were two versions). There are a few arcades around Japan that have that game, which I found from a [Reddit thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/trainsim/comments/13j76iv/finally_got_to_play_densha_de_go_in_japan/).
 
 There is a lot of really fun shopping in Ginza...
@@ -101,8 +101,8 @@ There is a lot of really fun shopping in Ginza...
 
 ## Food & Drink
 
-- [**Tsukiji Outer Market**](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Tsukiji+Outer+Market/@35.6611463,139.7705461,15.53z/data=!3m1!5s0x60188bded0599099:0x9e8525c63588dca4!4m6!3m5!1s0x60188b21cd0b675b:0xa26e24a1bf97025c!8m2!3d35.6649185!4d139.7702195!16zL20vMDJsazc2) 🐟 is both an attraction and very much a place to eat! The fish market has moved over to [Toyosu Fish Market](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Toyosu+Wholesale+Fish+Market/@35.6485545,139.7783982,15.53z/data=!3m1!5s0x60188991c87b9e95:0xf92470403d757b73!4m6!3m5!1s0x6018898de24f1911:0x6ab786a75d8ff16b!8m2!3d35.6419028!4d139.7818519!16s%2Fg%2F11c1p69023) and there are plenty of [guides](https://tokyocheapo.com/entertainment/sightseeing/toyosu-fish-market-what-to-know/) about how to visit that, though we didn't. But I went to Tsukiji three times! I suggest going in the morning; arriving around 8/8:30 was nice and a little less crowded than at 10am. I will never forget the incredible miso black cod I had from [here](https://maps.app.goo.gl/MHHsRKKpEv3U4CuP9). The A5 wagyu steak skewers at [Tsukiji Ihachi](https://maps.app.goo.gl/2YQNG78DGsKvvMbCA?g_st=ia) made my travel partners very emotional, and I loved the King crab leg. 🥹
-- Around **Asakusa** and Senso-ji Temple, I enjoyed [**Hatoya's Vegan Fruit Sandwiches**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/RTLeWz52W8Pigp3k8), and had *such* a delicious tempura lunch at [**Tentou**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/ucNsyGbi5DLSUFeK6)... my mouth is watering at the memory of that mixed seafood tempura over rice.
+- [**Tsukiji Outer Market**](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Tsukiji+Outer+Market/@35.6611463,139.7705461,15.53z/data=!3m1!5s0x60188bded0599099:0x9e8525c63588dca4!4m6!3m5!1s0x60188b21cd0b675b:0xa26e24a1bf97025c!8m2!3d35.6649185!4d139.7702195!16zL20vMDJsazc2) 🍣 is both an attraction and very much a place to eat! The fish market has moved over to [Toyosu Fish Market](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Toyosu+Wholesale+Fish+Market/@35.6485545,139.7783982,15.53z/data=!3m1!5s0x60188991c87b9e95:0xf92470403d757b73!4m6!3m5!1s0x6018898de24f1911:0x6ab786a75d8ff16b!8m2!3d35.6419028!4d139.7818519!16s%2Fg%2F11c1p69023) and there are plenty of [guides](https://tokyocheapo.com/entertainment/sightseeing/toyosu-fish-market-what-to-know/) about how to visit that, though we didn't. But I went to Tsukiji three times! I suggest going in the morning; arriving around 8/8:30 was nice and a little less crowded than at 10am. I will never forget the incredible miso black cod I had from [here](https://maps.app.goo.gl/MHHsRKKpEv3U4CuP9). The A5 wagyu steak skewers at [Tsukiji Ihachi](https://maps.app.goo.gl/2YQNG78DGsKvvMbCA?g_st=ia) made my travel partners very emotional, and I loved the King crab leg. 🥹
+- Around **Asakusa** and Senso-ji Temple, I enjoyed [**Hatoya's Vegan Fruit Sandwiches**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/RTLeWz52W8Pigp3k8) 🍓 and had *such* a delicious tempura lunch at [**Tentou**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/ucNsyGbi5DLSUFeK6) 🍤 ... my mouth is watering at the memory of that mixed seafood tempura over rice.
 
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@@ -139,7 +139,7 @@ Further west:
 - We took the train to **Arashiyama** ([station](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Arashiyama+Station/@35.0166361,135.6706379,16.03z/data=!4m15!1m8!3m7!1s0x6001a82a301cbaa7:0xe1ab173e46d78542!2zUnnFjWFuLWpp!8m2!3d35.0344943!4d135.7182634!10e5!16zL20vMDRkYnhr!3m5!1s0x6001a9ffbf7df903:0x55fe25ae12cc607e!8m2!3d35.0152199!4d135.6777126!16s%2Fg%2F1225qqyp?entry=ttu)), which was a beautiful and bustling neighboorhood! There were so many people on the street it was hard to walk at first, but it was very nice as we walked into [**Arashiyama Park**](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Arashiyama+Park+Kameyama+Area/@35.0166361,135.6706379,16.03z/data=!4m15!1m8!3m7!1s0x6001a82a301cbaa7:0xe1ab173e46d78542!2zUnnFjWFuLWpp!8m2!3d35.0344943!4d135.7182634!10e5!16zL20vMDRkYnhr!3m5!1s0x6001aa06adc6f49f:0xca892e2244ca2df6!8m2!3d35.0151776!4d135.6713285!16s%2Fg%2F1214fnv8?entry=ttu). We had a lunch reservation in the park for a multi-course tofu menu (at [Shoraian](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Shoraian/@35.0166361,135.6706379,16.03z/data=!4m14!1m8!3m7!1s0x6001a82a301cbaa7:0xe1ab173e46d78542!2zUnnFjWFuLWpp!8m2!3d35.0344943!4d135.7182634!10e5!16zL20vMDRkYnhr!3m4!1s0x6001aa06c66d0acf:0x35b590f68ae42ef2!8m2!3d35.0144471!4d135.6701325?entry=ttu)), and afterward made our way to the famous [**Arashiyama Bamboo Forest**](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Arashiyama+Bamboo+Forest/@35.0166361,135.6706379,16.03z/data=!4m14!1m8!3m7!1s0x6001a82a301cbaa7:0xe1ab173e46d78542!2zUnnFjWFuLWpp!8m2!3d35.0344943!4d135.7182634!10e5!16zL20vMDRkYnhr!3m4!1s0x6001abebbf5c8bad:0xfb9ffc7bbdd67cdd!8m2!3d35.0168184!4d135.6713019?entry=ttu), which was crowded but still impressive.
 
 Closer to the central business district:
-- We went to the [**Nishiki Market**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/CkTuVCTwGqo3wwW49) was so fun to explore. Mostly prepared food items (which you should eat at the stall, *not* walk with).
+- We went to the [**Nishiki Market**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/CkTuVCTwGqo3wwW49), which was so fun to explore. Mostly prepared food items (which you should eat at the stall, *not* walk with).
 - I ran out of time, but as a sewer I wish I had had time to visit [**Nomura Tailor House**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Xa27UgRRHp2R6u8G6) 🪡 and [**Nomura Tailor**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/ncSSsketeFzShq8Y9) for fabrics, as well as [**Linnet**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/U5QkoLsvyHBHfjb9A) for both linen fabric and ready to wear linen items.
 
 On the east side of the city, working from south to north:
@@ -162,8 +162,8 @@ On the east side of the city, working from south to north:
 </figure>
 
 - [**Nabura**](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Nabura/@35.0220141,135.7135757,14.03z/data=!4m15!1m8!3m7!1s0x6001a82a301cbaa7:0xe1ab173e46d78542!2zUnnFjWFuLWpp!8m2!3d35.0344943!4d135.7182634!10e5!16zL20vMDRkYnhr!3m5!1s0x60010798978ecbd1:0x6b67cf301f1a9f54!8m2!3d35.0279702!4d135.7394508!16s%2Fg%2F11t9dbpd6j?entry=ttu) 🐟 was an incredible, dreamy mackerel ramen that was right by our ryokan. Very inexpensive, one of the restaurants where you order first from a ticket machine at the door and then hand your receipts to the waiters. I would go out of my way to come back for this unique ramen!
-- Mentioned above in activities, but the [**Nishiki Market**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/CkTuVCTwGqo3wwW49) was so fun to explore. Tons of prepared food items and some other durable goods/souvenirs. I'm sure prices aren't the best, but it was great to have such a variety of snacks in a fun atmosphere. We had an egg sandwich, broiled crab legs, and tried some pickles. You could easily make a meal out of walking around the market, but we were saving room for our lunch!
-- Mentioned above as well (Japan really blurs the line between food and activities...), but on Sannenzaka shopping street we went to [**Kasagiya**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/BNtU1Lr347MXkN857) 🍵 for delicious tea and shaved ice in a very cute, traditional cafe; and to [**Fujinami**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/m8hpwFZbxbCo38zn7) for delicious warabi mochi and dango, probably the best I had in Japan.
+- Mentioned above in activities, but the [**Nishiki Market**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/CkTuVCTwGqo3wwW49) 🍡 was so fun to explore. Tons of prepared food items and some other durable goods/souvenirs. I'm sure prices aren't the best, but it was great to have such a variety of snacks in a fun atmosphere. We had an egg sandwich, broiled crab legs, and tried some pickles. You could easily make a meal out of walking around the market, but we were saving room for our lunch!
+- Mentioned above as well (Japan really blurs the line between food and activities...), but on Sannenzaka shopping street we went to [**Kasagiya**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/BNtU1Lr347MXkN857) 🍵 for delicious tea and shaved ice in a very cute, traditional cafe; and to [**Fujinami**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/m8hpwFZbxbCo38zn7) 🍡 for delicious warabi mochi and dango, probably the best I had in Japan.
 
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@@ -201,7 +201,7 @@ My beloved Osaka ❤️ especially because I found an amazing, English-friendly
 - [**Hakugintei**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/wH5B2vvoDKLLFBNs9) 🍛 for Japanese curry was absolutely incredible. I recently told a friend that "it was so good, it makes me angry." An absolutely perfect shrimp curry with egg. It's a very popular lunch spot near office buildings, and we lined up about 20 minutes before it opened which ended up working out perfectly -- we were third in line, and a long line quickly formed behind us.
 - [**Okonomiyaki Kiji**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/kt9XueY7muxknymL6) was really good. It's a bit hard to find (downstairs in a mall, but the Google Maps location is accurate!) and is popular so there was about a 20-minute wait when we arrived on a weekday. It was so delicious though, and really fun to sit at tables where each table has a built-in griddle so you can eat the okonomiyaki hot off the griddle with a spatula.
 - There are lots of places to try *takoyaki* in Osaka. My favorite was [**Takoyaki-house Biya**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Ynk7LB9pTtFZkPor7) 🐙. Hours may be incorrect on Google, it was closed the first time I went.
-- [**Gyukatsu Motomura**](https://www.google.com/maps/search/gyukatsu+motomura/@34.6675057,135.5000426,17z/data=!3m1!4b1?entry=ttu) has three locations all very close to each other in Dotombori, and serves only one thing: beef which you finish grilling yourself at the table, and is servd with very delicious sauces/sides. The line can be very long, but you can check which of the three locations has the shortest line.
+- [**Gyukatsu Motomura**](https://www.google.com/maps/search/gyukatsu+motomura/@34.6675057,135.5000426,17z/data=!3m1!4b1?entry=ttu) 🥩 has three locations all very close to each other in Dotombori, and serves only one thing: beef which you finish grilling yourself on a hot stone at your table, and is served with very delicious sauces/sides. The line can be very long, but you can check which of the three locations has the shortest line.
 
 # Hiroshima ⛩️
 
@@ -247,7 +247,7 @@ I stayed at two different places in Sapporo, and the [JR Tower Hotel Nikko Sappo
 
 ## Activities and shopping
 
-- I went on a short urban hike on [**Maruyama**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/oV7CT3EwXwreDk7MA) above the zoo. (It sounds like the zoo is also good, though I didn't go.) Eventually I had to turn back close to the summit when the trail got very muddy, but before that it was very nice.
+- I went on a short urban hike on [**Maruyama**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/oV7CT3EwXwreDk7MA) 🥾 above the zoo. (It sounds like the zoo is also good, though I didn't go.) Eventually I had to turn back close to the summit when the trail got very muddy, but before that it was very nice.
 - [**Popondetta Sapporoodoriten**](https://maps.app.goo.gl/hVBrmVUWtLVVPPM77) 🚂 was a train-themed store in the basement of the Maruzen & Junkudo department store. They had model trains and accessories, and also nice train-related gifts; I got some shinkansen children's chopsticks.
 
 ### Yoichi 🥃 and Otaru