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Adds guides to make debug cables and open Kuri's torso (#19)
Adds guides to make debug cables and open Kuri's torso
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--- | ||
layout: guide | ||
title: Making and using a debug cable | ||
category: hardware | ||
tags: | ||
- debug | ||
- serial | ||
--- | ||
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## Goal | ||
Make your own serial debug cable, to be able to use the debug console in cases | ||
where you cannot ssh into Kuri. | ||
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## Overview | ||
Kuri's main board has an open port, that when connected to your | ||
computer's USB port via a custom TTL cable, allows you to log in to your Kuri. | ||
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## Making a debug cable | ||
For the debug console, we use [3.3V TTL cables from FTDI that have been | ||
modified with the correct connector] | ||
(https://www.ftdichip.com/Products/Cables/USBTTLSerial.htm). | ||
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Connector housing: | ||
Manufacturer: JST | ||
Housing Part Number: PHR-3 | ||
Terminal Part Number: SPH-002T-P0.5L (note: precrimped wire leads are also | ||
available and will likely be easier to use since you won't have the proper crimper) | ||
Pinout: | ||
1: TX (output from board) -- Yellow on FTDI cable | ||
2: RX (input to board) -- Orange on FTDI cable | ||
3: GND -- Black on FTDI cable | ||
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(Alternatively, if you email [email protected] and ask very nicely, someone | ||
might be willing to lend you a debug cable, particularly if you are in the | ||
Bay Area.) | ||
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## Opening up your Kuri | ||
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See the page ``Opening up Kuri's Torso`` for instructions on how to remove | ||
Kuri's front shell to install the debug cable. | ||
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## Connecting the debug cable to Kuri's main board | ||
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Once you have the shell open, you should plug the debug cable into the | ||
only open port that the cable fits into. You can then route the cable out | ||
to the opening in Kuri's arm and tape/velcro it down, so that you don't | ||
have to open Kuri up to use it next time. | ||
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## Connecting the debug cable to your computer | ||
Now that the debug cable is plugged in to Kuri, plug the USB end (using | ||
a USB extension cable if needed) into your computer's USB port. | ||
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## Talking to Kuri from Linux | ||
If you are | ||
using a Linux computer, you can using the command-line application `screen` | ||
to talk to Kuri. If it is not installed, you can install it using | ||
```sudo apt install screen```. | ||
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Now connect to Kuri over /dev/ttyUSB0, with a baud rate of 115200: | ||
``` | ||
sudo screen /dev/ttyUSB0 115200 | ||
``` | ||
(If you don't want to use sudo, add your username to the `dialout` group | ||
in /etc/groups.) | ||
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## Talking to Kuri from Windows | ||
If you are using a Windows computer, | ||
download [PuTTY](https://www.putty.org/), switch the Connection Type to Serial, | ||
enter the correct | ||
COM port under Serial Line, edit Speed to use a baud rate of 115200, and | ||
the use the Open button to start the session. | ||
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## Booting up Kuri | ||
Now try switching your Kuri on. You should see a bunch of stuff appear, | ||
and ideally a prompt to allow you to log in to Kuri. If you don't get | ||
the prompt, hopefully there are nice error messages appearing to help you | ||
understand what's wrong. | ||
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--- | ||
layout: guide | ||
title: Opening Up Kuri's Torso | ||
category: hardware | ||
tags: | ||
- disassembly | ||
--- | ||
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## Goal | ||
Remove Kuri's front shell so that you can get at her main board. | ||
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## Overview | ||
To get at the inside of Kuri's torso, we will remove both arm plates, unscrew | ||
the screws underneath, then pop the front shells off and unhook the cables | ||
connecting the shells to the rest of Kuri. | ||
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## Removing Kuri's arm plates | ||
Kuri's arm plates (the grey things to both sides) are only held on by snap-fit. | ||
You can pop them off by sticking a spudger (or a flat-head screwdriver, or | ||
even a pen) in the crack between the bottom right (or left) edge of the grey | ||
plate and the black speaker grill, and wedging it outwards. | ||
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Once the arm plates are off, unscrew the screws on the side closest to Kuri's | ||
front. Also remove the screw holding the speaker grill on, then slide | ||
the speaker grill upwards to remove it. Now unscrew the screw on the side | ||
closest to Kuri's front that was underneath the speaker grill. | ||
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## Removing Kuri's front torso shells | ||
Kuri's front torso shells (both the white top and the black bottom shells) are | ||
only held on by snap-fit. Put Kuri on the ground, facing you, and grab | ||
both top and bottom shells at once, on both sides. Pull outwards and towards | ||
you, wiggling (and deforming slightly) the plates to release all the | ||
snap-fit attachments. | ||
> WARNING: Be careful with the cables that connect the two halves as you pull | ||
the shells off. | ||
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## Detaching cables | ||
Detach all the cables between the shells and Kuri's torso. | ||
> WARNING: Take careful note of | ||
the original orientation of the microphone cables (the microphones are the | ||
things on the other side of the four tiny holes around the neck), since | ||
those are easy to accidentally re-connect backwards. Note also how the one | ||
cable to the depth sensor goes through a cable-guide loop. | ||
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## Main board connections | ||
Now that Kuri's main board is exposed, there are two easy connection points | ||
of interest: one is the serial debug port, which you can use with a | ||
custom serial cable (see the ``Making and using a debug cable`` guide). | ||
The other is the open USB 3.0 port, which you can use to hook up USB devices | ||
to Kuri's main computer. | ||
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## Removing Kuri's rear torso shells | ||
Kuri's rear torso shells can be removed in much the same way as the front shells-- | ||
unscrew the rest of the screws under the arm plates, then grab the rear | ||
white and black shells and pull outwards and towards you. |