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- Let Chris Mullin know how it goes! (previous founder of DynEye). Spent a million or two working on the prototype, even got into PopSci top 10 inventions. https://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2011-05/2011-invention-awards-glare-killer/
I think the trick is to have the lens extend up above the eyes (you want to do that anyways) and then magically you get more space! However not sure current clip on design will support it. Maybe...
Cazal sunglasses look pretty similar and somehow stylish in the right light.
- Darkness required
- Width of blocking patch required (size of blurring/bokeh effect)
- Idle time
Need really dark pixels. Need duty cycle of ... 1/4 or less? Somewhere around there.
- Passive matrix LCD (lots of pixels) as drivers aren't really set up to support that and there are too many connections to do it by hand.
- TFT might work, but the RGB TFT LCD I tried corrupted the view and was too dark. Could try monochrome, but to get an order from Hanstar is 400,000 MOQ, no off the shelf parts. Could try 3d resin printer LCD screens, but they are too big and expensive.
- Cheap TN displays. Just might work...
https://github.com/nolanhergert/HeadlightBlocker/wiki/LCD-Specification
- Different grayscale levels for different patches. "Sunglasses" partially on mode as well as dark patches in spots. Not sure entirely, but standard segment drivers don't support this
- Lower BOM and LCD costs by:
- Having the same or inverted ITO connections on both sides of the same LCD design. So you have right-hand-drive and left-hand-drive and left eye / right eye on the same design!
- I think I can get away with same LCDs for left and right side of head and drive with the same signal too. This is tricky, might need to adjust LCD design a bit. Definitely need IPD adjustment by customer. Maybe is easier to do different designs.
- "Clip on sunglasses" design allows for IPD adjustment by customer unlike sunglasses frames and can flip them out of the way easily if needed. Simpler to design tooling too
- Might need temperature compensation. Use diode (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/how-to-use-diodes-transistors-ics-as-temperature-sensors/) or tune ch32v timers?
Don't work:
- Large patches of passive LCD, it's chunky visually and requires a much larger visual field than necessary to work
- 128x128 passive LCD. Too low contrast since you can't correctly passively drive them (there are weird edge cases when you try and block multiple things at once)
- Allow to more easily bend into place (assuming thin sheet). However not as scratch proof (although can put covers on it).
- People will believe it has no shards.
- Lighter, maybe cheaper?
Can do ITO onto PET film and others (used for capacitive touch sensors).
- Security film is pretty scratcheable
- Hydrogel is self-healing and seems to grip glass well (prevent glass shards)